Onward to Cusco, Puerto Maldonado and following Jesus to Hell

Somehow managed to survive the overnight bus trip from Arequipa to Cuzco, despite the good old Lonely Planet saying that we'd be likely either be killed in a crash or raped, robbed and murdered by bandits. It's actually a pleasant enough journey on Cruz del Sur with semi-cama seats and food service.

Arrived early at the airport to meet the flight on to Puerto Maldonado and to the jungle, where we'd semi planned to stay in a lodge for a few days. Cusco is at 3,200 metres, and Puerto is at 250 metres, back into the slightly thick, tropical air, warmth and humidity. Puerto is a pleasant small jungle town and a busy river port linking rural communities, and it's also just about 100% gringo and tourist free, which makes it a great place to potter about for a day or two. Spent the day organising our trip into the jungle, and in the end chose Inotawa Lodge, which involved exchanging money with the waitress of a small cafe.

In the morning we were met at our hostel by Jesus, who lead us to the Port of Hell, and on to a boat for a 2 hour journey to the lodge. I visited the jungle during my trip 10 years ago, and it's interesting to see the changes. The jungle is amazing, though it's not Australia where the wildlife comes out and finds you, it's more subtle. For me the best part is the noise of the forest, it's electric with the sounds of insects. It's also so dense, you'd be soon lost if you wandered of the track.

So we spent three days exploring parts of the jungle lead by our excellent and knowledgeable guide, Jesus. Visited a clay lick where parrots and macaws supplement their diets by eating clay from exposed cliffs. This apparently helps them digest berries etc. Visited an Ox-bow lake in search of Giant Otters, but instead saw caymans, cappuccino and squirrel monkeys. Went fishing for piranhas and saw capybaras.

The lodge itself was not busy, and on the last night we were the only guests. Met a fellow traveler, Carolyn who had been volunteering at the lodge who had taken part in the ayalascwa ceremony, and were nearly led off into the wilderness by chullanchaqui.

Monkey business above and more jungle pics here!