Colca Canyon is amazing. The access village, Chivay is a short four hour bus journey from Arequipa on the local bus, and is around 3,700 metres above sea level, with the bottom of the canyon at 2,100 metres. Arrived late in the evening, found our 20 Soles room and went tho what proclaims to be the world's highest altitude Irish pub for some late dinner... one of these Irish pubs where there are on Irish to be seen, and they only serve the local beer.
Early morining bus onto the town of Cabanaconde, where we would begin our trek to the bottom of the canyon and it's remote villages. The road along the canyon top is spectacular, taking in small villages that seem to be as they have been since colonial times, the road being narrow, rough, and a little scary for the overloaded bus. Arrived Cabanaconde, which is a pretty small town at 3,300 metres, grabbed our packs, and found the main track down into the canyon. Wobbly legs after 1,200 metres of constant downhill trekking on the mule track brought us to the village of San Juan, where we found a rustic homestay (this time at 5 Soles a night - I'm liking these prices!) owned by a colourfully dressed Josephina. A classic Andean village of 40 people, no electricity, no road access and right by the valley floor. Josephina told us that there were 5 homestays in the village, but it was very difficult for them to attract trade as most visitors were on guided tours, who typically would only stay at a few selected places, and never at their village.
Continued the following day through the villages of Cosnirhua and Malata, perched on the side of the canyon, stunning scenery, past the remains of an Inca burial ground in the cliff face. Each village has it's well maintained Plaza de Armas and Church, even though it's only accessible by foot or mule. Lunch at a rather bizarre oasis that has been built at the bottom of the canyon, before the steep climb out of the valley back to Cabanaconde.
OK, here's some tips... take more than two days for trekking... it's gorgeous, and if you can speak Spanish, it's good to visit the villages and talk to the locals, as well as spending a sole or two. You really don't need to go on a guided tour, and if you do, it's likely you'll not stay in any of the villages (thus helping the local economy) better to make your own small group and go off to explore. Oh yes, don't bring all your food etc with you, unless you're on the tightest of budgets, always try to think about where you spend your money and help the locals! And the best place for free, unbiased information? The good old i-Peru tourism information centre in Arequipa.
More pics here!
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