L'Ile de Paques ou Rapa Nui...faut aimer les pierres!

Apres deux jours a Santiago, nous sommes revenus sur nos pas...en avion, pour 10 jours sur l'Ile de Paques. Nous sommes arrives dans la grisaille de Rapa Nui, avons ete accueillis avec un collier de fleurs puis direction la guesthouse Ana Rapu, ou nous avons monte notre tente...et oui budget oblige, apres le camping-car, nous sommes passes a la tente! Petite tente de trois places, achetee en NZ pour trois fois rien...et ma foi super etanche car nous avons eu quasiment 8 jours de pluie et pas du petit crachin, de la bonne pluie. Ce n'est pourtant pas la saison, mais une tempete dans le Pacifique est venue s'installer juste au-dessus de Rapa Nui!

La guesthouse Ana Rapu pour le camping y'a mieux, on nous a d'abord montre un petit bout de terrain en pente a cote duquel se trouvait un abri en bois qu'on pouvait utiliser pour diner ou boire un coup...c'etait bien sur apres avoir retire le crottin de cheval qui y jonchait le sol! On a fait savoir que comme emplacement de camping, fallait faire mieux et on a reussi a se trouver un petit bout de terrain pas trop mal a cote du barbecue fait maison! Et apres avoir chasse les quelques cafards qui tournaient autour du BBQ, nous avons enfin pu monter notre tente avant qu'il ne commence a pleuvoir! Autant vous dire que le mythe de l'Ile de Paques s'effondre un peu quand vous commencez comme ca! Mais bon, quand vous avez fait le Vietnam, rien ne vous surprend ni ne vous arrete!Le mystere des Moai restait entier!

Malgre la pluie quasi incessante donc, nous avons quand meme pu visiter l'ile et aller avoir ces fameux Moai. Rapa Nui c'est tout petit et a part les statues y'a pas grand chose! L'ile est relativement plate a l'exception de deux petits volcans. Autour, pas de lagon, ni de barriere de corail. Et meme pour le surf, malgre une bonne reputation, c'est pas si genial que ca...dixit un surfer chevronne venu d'Hawai! Donc, c'est vraiment a inclure dans un tour du monde, traverser le globe pour y venir tout specialement...oubliez! Vraiment l'ile n'a que les Moai, et une fois que vous les avez vus, debout, avec chapeau, sans chapeau, avec les yeux, sans les yeux, couches sur le ventre, couches sur le dos...en gros vous les avez tous vus! 4 jours c'est suffisant on pense, a moins d'etre passionne d'archeologie.

Mais on ne regrette pas du tout, c'etait vraiment un endroit ou on avait envie de venir. Le mystere demeure autour de ces statues car personne ne sait vraiment ce qu'elles signifient, comment elles ont ete transportees depuis la carriere ou elles ont ete sculptees. Les us et coutumes des habitants ont disparus egalement, ne demeurent que quelques descriptions faites par les navigateurs, explorateurs de l'epoque qui en ont fait allusion dans leurs recits de voyage. L'endroit le plus impressionnant reste la carriere. Tailles dans la roche, les Moai etaient ensuite detaches de la roche et glisses jusqu'en bas avant d'etre transportes. Il y reste quelques peintures rupestres egalement, et quelques petites grottes qui valent la peine d'etre explorees. Si vous voulez jouer les Indiana Jones!

Enfin, voyant que les previsions meteo qui annoncaient du beau se sont vite averees etre fausses, nous avons decide de retourner sous le soleil de Santiago 2 jours plus tot! Nous sommes restes en tout 8 jours sur Rapa Nui, y avons rencontre des gens super avec qui nous avons passe quelques longues soirees pluvieuses dans la cuisine commune de notre guesthouse! Et en prime, apres un retard de plus de cinq heures, nous avons eu le privilege de voyager en business class...la premiere fois de notre vie et on a adore!Merci LAN Chile!

Petits conseils aux voyageurs qui voudraient s'aventurer sur l'Ile de Paques:

• Ne vous attendez pas au luxe cote hotel, ca n'existe pas. Les petites guesthouses se valent un peu toutes. Ana Rapu c'est la moins chere, mais au niveau proprete, c'est pas le luxe non plus. Ana est sympa mais un peu fatiguee par le travail, elle ne semble plus etre la personne decrite dans les guides! Nous elle nous aimait bien donc ca allait et elle etait prete a nous conduire a l'aeroport pour 2500 pesos chacun au lieu des 3000 qu'elle demandait aux autres, un taxi coutant 1000 pour la course et l'aeroport etant a 15 minutes a pied! On a decide de marcher!
  

• La vie y est tres chere, tout etant importe donc si vous pouvez, faites vos provisions avant, c'est mieux. Attention, comme en Australie et Nouvelle-Zelande y'a des restrictions sur ce que vous pouvez apporter comme nourriture. A verifier avant de partir! Si vous venez de Santiago, pas de probleme. Cote regime alimentaire, c'est assez limite. Et cote resto, c'est cher pour ce que vous avez dans l'assiette.

• Quant aux visites, deux sites seulement sont payants, 5000 pesos pour les deux, une fois le premier site visite, vous avez 5 jours pour aller voir le deuxieme. Le musee vaut le detour et coute 1000 pesos. Les locations de moto, velo et voiture restent cheres. Nous on a partage la location avec un autre couple pour reduire le cout, mais faites le tour des agences avant pour comparer les prix, c'est vraiment un peu a la tete du client!
  

Mais malgre la grisaille et les cafards, Rapa Nui reste une experience inoubliable! Et les photos de notre court sejour a Rapa Nui sont ici.

Santa Cruz... Haciendas and Wineries

Leaving Valparaiso and heading south past Santiago, we stopped at a small town called Santa Cruz for three days. Santa Cruz is in the heart of the Colchagua Valley, one of Chile's best wine regions and full of Haciendas.

Stayed in a really nice Hostal/Bed and Breakfast with just a few rooms and a swimming pool in town. Visited the excellent Museo de Colchagua, that charts the history of the region from pre colonial times until almost the present. Has a fabulous collection of vintage horse drawn carriages, cars and wine production equipment, as well as artefacts from Nazca and Inca empires, fossils and an early rail carriage. After, had an interesting visit to the Carabineros to check the validity of my driving license in Chile.

Following day we took the local bus to Hacienda el Huique, a preserved hacienda that has links to various Chilean presidents and is gracefully decaying in the hot and dusty countryside. The buildings themselves are adobe, made with mud and straw, mixed by horse power, and screeded over. The haciendas were once the country manors of Chile, and were in effect private villages with the landowners at the top. Land reforms in the 1960s saw most of the estates divide up amongst the workers as Chile moved toward collectivisation. Now it's a museum (actually owned by the army) that still retains its former glory.

After a "completo" at a local village eatery, we took a collectivo to the Vina Mont Gras estate for a wine tour, which was fabulous. Neither of us had ever actually taken a wine tour before, so we learned about the different grapes, pressing, fermentation and ageing process, followed by a very civilised tasting with some excellent wines accompanied with matched nibbles. Bus back to town and another evening meal al fresco by the pool. Love it here.

More pics click here!

Armada de Chile

One special highlight of Valparaiso is that it's the home port of the Chilean Navy... and that you can take a regular boat trip right up next to most of the fleet. When we visited, 14 ships were at home, including the Almirante Condell (wearing pennant number 06 in the picture), ex-HMS Marlborough (and sister ship to HMS Northumberland), Type 23 Frigates that were the last military ships to be built in Swan Hunters in the early 1990s. She was inaugurated into the Chilean navy on 28th May 2008, my birthday! Also in port was the Esmarelda, a tall masted sailing ship that we'd seen in Rouen the year before!

Valparaiso

It's the 27th December, and time to leave Santiago, and explore the rest of the country. Onward to Valparaiso, Chile's second city, and Santiago's port city. It's an interesting place, a series of hills surrounding the bay and port, with colourful houses strewn across them. Amongst other things, it's famous for its asensors (funicular lifts) that are placed throughout the city, as well as it's UNESCO WHS old town, where we stayed. It's a colouful city - not just the houses, but with the street art and copious amounts of graffiti everywhere.

Visited the house of Pablo Neruda, Nobel prize winner of Chile and acclaimed poet who pushed for socialism in the country, and spent a considerable time in excile. It's well worth a visit, perched high on the hillside with stunning views over the city. Just a short visit, then off the following morning to Santa Cruz, in one of Chile's most important wine making regions.

More pictures here!

Christmas Celebrations!

A busy day... things to get in town, and the day is getting progressively busier. Had a lovely lunch in what was similar to a French Basserie, but Chilean style, and then to Mercado Central for a Chilean specialty drink.. sort of a young wine, with ice cream and a type of rum added - extremely potent. Went to this little place that Celine went to with her tutor the day before. We were the only foreigners in the place, which i think is quite unusual for Santiago. In any case, we had a lively hour or so, and made friends with a copper miner from Iquique. Bit of a stumble home to rest before joining with the family for Christmas dinner, which is celebrated on the 24th in Chile.

The evening was spent with the family of the guesthouse, on the terrace. Began with apperritief, music, and followed by lovely food with all the family. Perhaps one or two too many mango sours for me, but still managed to behave myself. Just after midnight we wend downstairs to open Christmas presents, after Silent Night was beautifully sung by Fernanda, daughter of one of Max's brothers (if I remember, I'll attach a video below!). A beautiful evening and an honor to share it with such a nice family. I crawled up the stairs to bed... More Christmas pics here!

Back to School! 3 days crash immersion in Spanish

Began our classes at the Natalis language school - Celine stared the more advanced course with Prof Recardo, and me, the basic beginners with Prof Karina and fellow student Lisa.

The course is good as the morning has classroom lessons, followed by visiting the city in the afternoon, and lunch with the teacher. OK, for me, it's quite a bit of brain overload, but still an excellent foundation in the language, and a definite necessity to continue studying. It's an excellent introduction to Chilean life and culture, even though it can feel a bit like a bizarre date!

I visited Mercardo Central on the first day, Cerro Santa Lucia on the second, and Cerro San Cristobal on the third, as well as various museums and also some Universities as well. Think also it's a great time to do it, just before Christmas, when the city is bustling.

Think the best part of it all was joining in with the commute, and having some kind of daily routine in Santiago, just different to the usual stuff!

For some more pictures of Santiago, click here!

Escape from Easter Island!

Hurrah! We made it... flight delayed by 7 hours, but we made it off the island (i have since had nightmares of being stranded on eater island)... and thanks to a mix up with the seating, we were upgraded to business class, and wow, that's how the other half live. Fillet steak, choices of fine reserve wines, gourmet foods, champagne, seats that turn into proper beds... just amazing really!

We were like kids when we were upgraded, playing with the seats and taking pictures of ourselves. But horror struck when we landed, poor Yersin (Celine's pet turtle) had disappeared! Where could he have crawled off to? After we landed in Santiago, we had to call in the engineer to dismantle the seat, and find poor Yersin who had fallen behind in the workings. It was an emotional but happy moment when Celine and Yersin were reunited.

Easter Island

Arrival in Easter Island to thick clouds and humidity... set up the tent (our wonderful NZ$48 warehouse special) just in time before the rain started... and lasted for the following eight days of our visit. The first night put our little tent to the utmost test of waterproofness as it thundered with rain.

Met some really nice people at our slightly squalid residencial - a surfer couple from Hawaii that were travelling the world with their surfboards, and an American and Chilean couple who had come to enjoy some warm tropical weather (oops!)

Originally, the weather forecast was rain over the weekend until Tuesday, after which was uninterrupted sunshine, so many of the early days were spent in the kitchen, chatting, cooking and pottering... everyone generally waiting for the weather to clear, amongst talk of "it might clear up...." Depression began to sink in on Tuesday when it really wasn't going to clear up, and the weather forecast changed back to continuous rain. Good people met, some good party late nights, ah yes, and the statues, or Moai as they are known.

OK, I'm supposed to be a "heritage professional", but apart from the statues, there's really nothing much on the islands, and unless you're seriously into archeology atc, think long and hard about your visit, as really, there's not much going on there. Saying that too, the whole legends of the lost civilizations of Easter Island are truly fascinating, and a big warning for the rest of us on on this small planet (an abridged version of the Easter Island history is the native population was highly organised and civilized, but effectively broke down into chaos as natural resources ran out due to population pressures on limited resources)... and the statues in the quarry are truly amazing (all the others have been "resurrected" for tourism purposes).

Oh yes - the roads are terrible - we shared the rental of a small 4wd with some friends, it almost floated and started to flood on the inside as we plunged through the deep mud and flooded roads.

For a selection of pictures of Moai standing up, lying on their fronts, lying on their backs, broken, complete, half buried, with hats on, without hats on etc... click here!

Arrival in Santiago

After a long but comfortable flight with LAN, we arrived in Santiago... to gorgeous sunshine, landing in front of the Andes, a very impressive sight. Just two nights touch down to organise our stay over Christmas, and accommodation for our return back to school for our language lessons before we're off to Easter Island.

Stayed at the Andes Hostel just next to Bellas Artes metro, and armed with our Tarjeta Bip!s, were fully able to explore the city. First impressions were good... bustling, good food and decent weather. Booked our accommodation for Christmas time - 10 days in the Casa Condell, a sort of B&B/residentiale/homestay right in Providencia... then off to Easter Island, the land where I'd heard so much about and was fascinated to see (after all, I'm allegedly qualified to be a "Heritage Professional!")

Last week in New Zealand... Sailing, Fishing and Flying

Last week in New Zealand... Staying back at Rod and Rosie's, and a week of sailing, Christmas parties, Maori blessings fishing and flying... and a day shopping too :o(

Rod took us out on his boat to explore the islands off the Algie's Bay area, Sailed to a country house on an island that was in the care of DoC - Rod actually used to service the TVs etc back in the 70s and 80s when the place was a hotel (the first governer of NZ used to own and live there, and created sort of an arboretum, and had a cart pulled by zebras to get him around.

Back to the boat and a slight mishap with the tide as it seemed to have disappeared a little more than expected, though if it wasn't for the unexpected pause, I wouldn't have been able to go fishing to retrieve my swimming shorts which mysteriously jumped overboard, and I had to climb the mast to spot them resting on the seafloor!

Enjoyed the annual Christmas party BBQ with classic NZ lamb, beers and wines, as well as deserts.

Said goodbye to our van that had been so loyal to us, ten minutes before leaving to meet the people we'd just sold it to, it wouldn't start, and needed two emergency jumpstart batteries to get it going (it had poured with rain the night before and the electrics were wet). Was a great van, even made a nice little profit on it, but next time, think we'll get something a bit larger (or alternatively win the lottery and stay in hotels).

And then a day that you dream about... flying a plane and then going fishing! Rod took us up for a fly-about in the aero club plane. Flying in the Cessna Skyhawk II is fun...a 4 seater high wing single engined prop, with fabulous all round visability. I sat in the co-pilot's seat, and Rod talked me through the controls, and let me practice taxiing (much to the undoubted bemusement of onlookers who had come to visit the airfield, as i swerved around the runway), and practice some basic manouers in the air. I loved every moment. We flew over the farm, over the islands where we sailed the previous days, and over various marine parks etc. Safe landings... and i must learn to fly one of these days.

And that's not all... Chris, Rod's son arrived in the eveining with Gloria and his boat, a ridgid inflatable with a pretty powerful outboard, and asked if i'd like to join them for an evenings fishing... how could one refuse such an offer?

Fishing in my previous experiences has been that of sitting with a line for hours and waiting.... well, the moment we arrived at the fishing sopt, Gloria cast her rod, and no exaguration, caught a fish literally immediately - a good sized snapper. It wasn't long before i hooked my first ever fish, and what a fish and effort to bring him in, a huge snapper too, I was exhausted and pumped through of adrenalyin after, i had to have a beer. Alltogether i caught four beautiful snappers which we enjoyed for dinner and breakfast the following days. Magic. And yes, i had to do the cheesy picture holding the fish.

Farewells to Rod and Rosie, hopefully we'll be able to visit next year at the end of our round the world trip... see some more pics here.

Now onward to a new continent!

The Coromandel

On the way to Rod and Rosie's, we decided to visit the Coromandel peninsula, famous in NZ for seafood, and smoked mussels. Stayed at a lovely quiet place called Ke Tekoua in a little place with a few bungalows set in 5 hectares of farmland, with lovely views over a small sea loch, well away for the road, and deserted.

Ate far too many smoked mussels, and don't think i'd ever want any again... For a few more pictures click here!

Tongariro Crossing

Alas, the weather forecast was drizzle all week, except for the first day we arrived in the park... which was sunshine! So we participated in New Zealand's busiest day walk, with about 1,000 people starting between 7 and 9am every morning... except we started at 11am, when everyone else had already left, and we walked to the Blue Lakes and back... not quite the full crossing, but saw the best parts, and there was almost no one else – gorgeous and well worth it... though didn't really recognise Mount Doom... More pics here!

Heading back to the North Island

Up at 5 am to get the super-deal Inter-islander ferry back to the North Island... and disappointed that it wasn't the old Pride of Bruges P&O Ferry that we'd heard was travelling the sound these days. Bluebridge and Inter-Islander? Well, there's not much difference really, only that Bluebridge is consistently cheaper and has cabins available. Heading north to Tongariro, where we'd planned to do the four day northern circuit tramp, but with a bad week ahead forecast, seeming less likely! A day's shopping in Wellington, where we, as privileged members of Macpac's club, had exclusive access to the first day of Christmas sales... and I bought a snazzy new and significantly larger backpack, to accommodate all the things we've picked up on the way (mostly clothes to keep us warm!)

Historic Aviation Museum

Visited Blenheim historic aviation museum today (and saw NZ's airforce Skyhawks wrapped up in their latex covering by the runway)... museum was interesting as it was full of flyable WWI bi and tri-planes, some originals, but most recreations... interesting especially as they depicted German planes, costume and history.

Had a recreation of the Red Baron's Fokker triplane after it was shot down, and bizarrely there was a Stuka parked outside. See the post on Renwick for more pics.

Wine Tours around Renwick

After all the mountains and tramping etc, we decided to participate in some “cultural” activities.... and headed to Renwick where there's a great backpackers that hires out bikes so you can do your own self-guided tours around the many wineries in the region, all offering extensive samplings, most for free...

Just like an episode of the Holiday Programme i saw years ago, back in the days when people still took package tours to France. First stop was Allan Scott's for a taste of i think 7 different wines, resulting in the purchase of a lovely bottle of Riesling, then onward (a little light-headed), then to another winery for a ploughman's platter, another bottle of wine and a tasting of spirits and gin for me! And then some more wineries...

More pics here!

Mount Cook

Stopped briefly at Twizel on the way to Mt Cook, and was entertained by the piped country music in the town centre... Mt Cook is really amazing, even though snow and a toe injury prevented us from doing any serious hiking (we'd hoped to be able to get to Muller Hut in the mountains), but did enjoy some smaller hikes, camping and the really good visitor's centre.
More pictures here!

Milford Sound

On to Te Anau to look at the Keplar track... alas closed due to avalanche danger, then on to Milford Sound, a lovely drive down a one way road for about 90km. Camped first night to be awoken in the morning with a tour bus arrival and seemingly hundreds of people taking pictures of the lake next to where we'd camped.

And the snow! Just a few days ago we'd been sunbathing, and now we're driving through snow... fabulous scenery, and the van did just fine. More pictures here...

Warkworth et la boucle est bouclee!

Notre sejour en Nouvelle-Zelande s'est termine la ou il avait commence: chez nos amis Rod et Rosie, a Warkworth, au nord d'Auckland. Programme charge pour notre derniere semaine: inauguration de la bibliotheque par le chef maori du coin, visite de la region cote mer, sur le bateau de Rod, barbecue de Noel avec les voisins, petit tour en avion pour voir le coin vu d'en haut cette fois-ci et enfin partie de peche pour Mike avec Chris,le fils de la famille et sa femme, Gloria, et a eux trois ils ont peche 17 poissons, et on ne parle pas de petits poissons la-bas! La preuve en images!

Deapart de Nouvelle-Zelande le 7 decembre, apres presque trois mois a explorer le pays. Nous sommes prets pour de nouvelles aventures et avons hate de decouvrir la culture sud-americaine. Direction le Chili et tout d'abord l'Ile de Paques.

Les quelques photos de notre derniere semaine chez les kiwis sont ici!