Motorbiking in Laos

Thought we'd begin the world adventure with a motorbike trip to Laos - all with the pretense of attending the World Ecotourism Conference in Vientiane. 2200km by bike through rural Vietnam and Laos, just fantastic. We'd heard so many stories about crossing the border with motorbikes, that in the end the "team" (us and our good friend Achim) just decided to try it out. After a good days drive we crossed the border at Na Meo, all required was a bit of friendly chit chat with the customs official, big smiles all round, and a stamping of our departure card (OK, 100,000d as well).

We'd made it! Quiet, empty country roads, gorgeous scenery, friendly locals and copious amounts of bia lao.First night at Viang Xai, the home of the Pathet Lao during the war. Plenty of bia lao to celebrate, and our first of many laap and sticky rice. Stayed in a previous re-education camp and met an Aussie working in tourism development called Meg (who shouted us a free guided trip to the caves!). Alas, by this stage, Achim's motorbike was failing with a broken syncro and fused piston ring, the following evening ending with a complete electrical failure (after an emergency clutch cable replacement) at 6pm in a the pouring rain and developing storm. We traveled to a local village, scaring everyone in our orange waterproofs and white NBC suit style waterproof trousers.

In the end (about 7.30, pitch black) we met a 4wd going to the Vietnam border (at midnight), who helped out and found us a truck to get Achim and his bike to a guest house for the night. Arrived at 9.30, soaking, and had the best Lao pho ever. And that was as far Achim got on his bike, he departed by flatbed in the morning to Phonsavanh, then on to Vientiane.

So for the next three days we were on our own through Laos. The road from Sam Nua to Phonsavanh is very mountainous and windy (and is all the way through to Vang Vieng), but with virtually no traffic and smooth surfaces, makes it gorge ous driving, and the slow speed giving plenty of time to enjoy the views. With a slight mishap of driving entirely the wrong way for an entire day, and ending back in Phonsavanh again, the trip was stunning all the way to Vientiane. What strikes me the most is how better drivers the Laotians are compared to the Vietnamese. I sounded my horn 3 times in the entire country - all to say hello. Last day to Vientiane - 11 hours of driving and 396km, arrived late to the conference gala dinner, but well worth it for seeing the country by bike.

In the end the conference was OK, interesting but not ground breaking. And if I had a beer lao for every time i heard "Malaysia truely Asia"... Nice to potter about in Vientiane though, nice steak and croissants.

The road back was totally different, following the flat plain of the Mekong, letting us open up on the way back. Achim had now rejoined with a fully repaired bike. Stopped at a little town called Pak Kading after some serious rain and some good fish. Back to the Vietnam border following day, Cau Treo, via the border town of Lak Sao... now this area is full of huge timber trucks, many with Vietnamese registrations... all heading to into Laos empty, returning with their fully laden cargo's. The border was fascinating, a smugglers paradise. A night in some little pink guesthouse in Ha Tinh province followed by a blast up the Ho Chi Minh Highway, only really stopping to hide from the lightening in a family's house on the way. Returned to Hanoi just before rush hour... the mayhem still going strong!

Recommendations for people doing the trip:

Take a very good bike (unless you're into roadside repairs). We hired a fabulous Yamaha YBR from Mr Hung at Flamingo Travel http://flamingotravel.com.vn/ 125cc, two people, full luggage, no problem in the mountains or highway. Its a kind of cross bike (all roads we traveled were either fully sealed or well graded gravel roads) - will do 500km to a tank, even in the mountains, so no worries about fuel (though you can get fuel even in the most remote villages).

Take decent waterproofs and waterproof saddlebags - Flamingo travels were excellent (alas my Made in Vietnam Columbia waterproof jacket was not waterproof). Also take warm stuff even in the middle of summer, it gets cold in the mountains, even during the daytime.

Be polite and exceptionally courteous to the customs officials when leaving Vietnam - this could be the toughest part of the trip. If you're friendly, they'll help, but I think they'd delight in saying no to an arrogant foreigner... afterall, unless you have your own name on the paper... Speaking Vietnamese definitely helps.

Enjoy the trip!